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São Miguel

"The Green Island"

By Javi Lorbada

March 11^th, 2020

Azores was on our list for a while, yet, for one or another reason we had postponed this destination. Since we moved back Madrid, distance has shortened and even though the flight required a layover, that was fairly short.

Past year, during easter in April, we, excited, departed towards Ponta Delgada, the beginning and end for this journey.

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MADRID - PORTO - PONTA DELGADA

The first half of the day we literally spent it traveling, from Spain there weren’t direct flights to these islands and we chose to stop over in Porto. It wasn’t that bad in the end, short first flight, a bit long at the transition airport, good to have a coffee, and then onto the second plane towards the Azores.

I was lucky to get a window seat, and even luckier to have it on the side where the island, during landing, was in sight. We had, though, a storm hitting the north of São Miguel, and that got very noticeable on the plane, very strong tailwind with a few turbulences, although I managed to get some images, I kinda got dizzy.

After landing, get big luggage and do all formalities for the car, we headed straight to the apartment. Nice and cozy. Not much after, we walked towards the city, and the storm hit on us. Kind of hail or huge water drops combine with very strong winds, in literally seconds were soaked. We found shelter and waited a bit. Weather wasn’t very predictable so we continued with shower rains.

Ponta Delgada looked very gray, some old buildings in construction, some others seemed abandoned. Kept walking towards the center and that got better, colorful facades, narrow streets, local bars, and colonial buildings.

If you add a few flowers and puddles were to play with reflections, the rain wasn’t that bad at all. Clara was getting hungry, and that was the time to look for a restaurant, not an easy task. Ended up having a delicious burger from Azorean meat.

Then, we walked back to the apartment found again a few night shots.

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Caloura - Lagoa - Ponta Delgada - Lagoa do Fogo

Soon we realized the island is smaller than we expected, even though we were kind of slow in the morning, we had plenty of time for visiting a few more places than we thought.

Starting from Caloura, a rather small fishing village that has a natural cozy pool by the ocean, of course, isn’t the season for bathing so we just stood by its side, watched a few fishermen arrived with the catch of the day.

Then drove a few km west and stopped by Lagoa, another village, this one a bit bigger, similar architecture by the ocean, colorful facades and a small marina.

Back in Ponta Delgada for lunch ended up at this amazing restaurant serving a Fisherman Soup inside a rounded bread, and cook your own steak, both of the dishes were delicious, portions were huge and that sent us straight for a coffee before heading onto nature.

In the afternoon we drove all the way to Lagoa do Fogo and we started to see how pristine the nature of the island is, perfectly conserved, the lake watercolor matches the green of the flora that surrounds, it was windy on top and clouds were rolling on top of us, looked like the rain was coming so we continue driving the winding road down the north coast, passed by thermal pools and ended up in a north village. A short walk there, wind and rain didn’t really invite for more, and that’s how we called it a day.

Back in Ponta Delgada for a few more Portuguese tapas dinner, finishing on a lovely talk with Russian couple from Boston.

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Ponta Delgada - Vila Franca Do Campo - Furnas

Grey day awaited us outside, few chances of rain, turned in to more than just that. Slow pace in the morning, breakfast and checkout. Then we walked through the city Ponta Delgada, first the Farmers Market where fresh fruits and vegetables are purchased by locals since the Azoreans really take care of their cows you can find fresh cheese and meat as well.

A walk through the city showed us a few new streets and a botanic garden, quite beautiful indeed. For lunch, we headed to the vegetarian place Clara had in mind, really liked the concept of sharing a table with more people, and a simple menu, a first dish, soup of the day, and two choices as a main, we went for the mix, quite tasty, I’d recommend.

In the afternoon drove through the coast to Vila Franca Do Campo, first to check an area I would like to take the drone for a spin, second a viewpoint, Miradouro da Nossa Senhora da Paz. The second was a bit crowded but the views are totally worth it. The whole coast where the village is located, as well as the small peculiar Islet of Vila Franca do Campo, only accessible by boat and only in the summer season.

Satisfied with the time in there we continued towards our next stop for the coming three days, Furnas. Driving into the valley was outstanding, reaching out to the Furnas lake was amazing. The whole valley so far was the best of the trip.

Settled at our apartment and headed out for sunset, to Miradouro do Pico do Ferro, another viewpoint, and that was simply incredible, we spent sunset there and I certainly enjoyed the view to the village, Furnas, and the lake, as well as the mountains that surround the whole valley, pretty stunning. Sun faded on the horizon, the light was dimmed down, we called it a day and headed back home.

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Vila Franca Do Campo - Furnas - Provoçao - Nordeste - Lagoa do Congro

I’m glad I woke up for sunrise, although it was quite early, 6 am, it was totally worthy. Drove the car for about 30 min, the full moon was lightening the road, the destination was clear, get as close as possible to Islet of Vila Franca do Campo, I had the image in mind. Last-minute I took a detour cause I was earlier than expected and headed to a viewpoint, had a nice time there and drove a few more minutes towards the village.

As soon as I arrived, took the drone for a spin, and hell yes! The light was good, the drone worked, got the picture! A quite spectacular islet, in fact, the perfect circle inside looks amazing, I wouldn’t mind swimming there. After that moment of glory, I headed back for breakfast.

The day was grey, low clouds accompanied us along with the multiple stops. Firstly Provoçao, a little cute village were today in Easter Friday man, probable fisherman, were drinking beer since 11 am, and no one else was outside, it looked a bit desolated, so we left early. On the road, we stopped at multiple viewpoints to end up having lunch at Nordeste.

I must admit this winding road was amazing, surrounded by lush greens, trees, wild ginger, small villages, and incredible cliffs, it doesn’t get boring, we had pretty much the same light the whole day, greens and greys.

After lunch visited the spot we are going for sunrise tomorrow. It’s funny a viewpoint close by it’s called the “Sunrise Viewpoint”, so it’s calling us. It was pretty amazing, the lighthouse, the steep road down, and the few cute fisherman houses in there. To both sides green cliffs of 100m + highness.

Rain showers started, low clouds even unveiled more so we headed back to Furnas, walked around for the Caldeiras (hot springs) and then headed to Lagoa do Congro to finish the day. Even though we tried a lookout for sunset, fog and clouds didn’t let us see a thing so went back for dinner.

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Faial Da Terra - Salto do Prego - Ribeira Quente - Lagoa do Congro - Gorreana Tea Plantation - Maia

Despite being lazy and not waking up for sunrise we did wake up early and went for a hike. Not too long but a wonderful 2h hike to Salto do Prego waterfall. The whole nature in there it’s pristine, evergreen forest all around makes the place stunning. The hike goes next to the river, the valley view was spectacular, and once we arrived at the objective, it didn’t disappoint. Powerful waterfall.

Just prior to arriving at the car, we took a different path, there was this village called Sanguinho, another of those hidden gems there in the Azores.

That day we had the traditional Cozido das Furnas, and the whole portion was out mind, we couldn’t finish even half of it, we like it though, however, I felt I was eating a boiled barbecue, too much dry meat.

In the afternoon Clara went for a siesta, well deserved after lunch. And then we drove to the small village of Ribeira Quente, a fisherman village which for some reason I saw in the morning from the distance, quite spectacular colorful houses going offshore.

Continue to Lagoa do Congro, where I took the drone for a spin and it really shined, again nature in there seemed untouched.

With an extra hour until the sunset, non-existent for us so far, we headed to the tea plantations, currently the only one in Europe and the oldest. This time the human has shaped beautiful patterns as seen from above.

To call it a day, we drove to the north coast seeking some light for sunset, that didn’t happen.

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Ponta do Arnel - Ribeira dos Caldeirões - Salto da Farinha - Lagoa de São Bras - Praia dos Moinhos - Mosteiros - Sete Cidades - Várzea

That was a long day, woke up at 5:50 am, I’m just about to go to bed at 23:23h. I had a few expectations for a great sunrise on the east coast, well that didn’t happen.

Overcast all the way, windy and some shower rains, the greatest start of the day.

We had planned a long driving day, in fact, we went from the Far East to the Far West, no jokes. Along the way, we stopped on a few waterfalls, the first one, quite beautiful, the second one, a bit dry.

Skies weren’t getting any better, light was dimmed and clouds didn’t move, still, we tried this lake on top of the mountains, Lagoa de São Bras, that was funny, we were there three cars, all of us ask each other if it was beautiful, we couldn’t see two meters far away, so we turned back.

For lunch we made it all the way through North, stopping at several viewpoints and a beach, and finally, we made it, to the one and only restaurant which cooks the best octopus in town, oh my god, so tasty!

In the afternoon we checked in onto the new apartment and continue to the incredible area of Sete Cidades. The fog hadn’t cleared out yet, and the first 45 minutes we were just driving here and there like a chicken, I was trying to find the spots where clouds were not there.

So we entered this 5 star abandoned hotel, the interesting story behind and amazing views inside and outside.

On our way back seemed to have opened and we stayed a bit longer. To call it a day went back to Mosteiros in seek of a sunset. Call me crazy! Well, I saw the orange color, as a thin line on the horizon! Happy I went back to dinner.

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Ferreira - Sete Cidades - Mosteiros

6:30 am alarm clock rings, I wake up and look through the window, my predictions were correct, no sunrise, and no more than a few meter visibility, glad I see the bed again and I crash a few more hours.

Around 10 am, after better sleep, a shower and breakfast we headed to Ferraira, this volcanic area at sea level have a natural swimming pool where during low tides you get warm waters, we didn’t try but people seemed to be having a blast.

Then we continue to the Sete Cidades, fog and clouds were there but today a bit higher, visibility had gotten better too.

We roamed around the few lakes in there, Lake Canario, Lagoa Rasa, and the big main ones, with a few viewpoints. This area truly is a gem, even though the light conditions and weather aren’t the best, it’s really spectacular. Too bad it was too windy for some aerial shots.

Lunch was down the village, which was, as usual, delicious in kind of a buffet.

After that, we continue exploring the areas with a few more lakes, a few short hikes and finally, I took the drone for flight, it was too windy though and I didn’t dare to send it far, still good to see some of this places from the air, such iconic volcanoes.

For sunset we went to Mosteiros, Clara though felt like going home due to cold and wind, I went to Ferraira to try spot some whale of the shore, I didn’t see any and I called it a day driving back to the apartment.

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Varzea - Ponta Delgada - Porto - Madrid

Like every trip, there's one day you head home, day 8 it was for us.

We left the whale watching tour for the last day, multiple reasons behind, logistically speaking was the best time due to our early afternoon flight.

At the beginning of the trip, I was really keen to give it try, after I sent a few emails to the companies that offer the tours I was a bit hesitant to go, Clara instead gained interest and we finally went.

We didn't see any whale, which was expected, the crew told me whales are coming later year after year, so now May is the best month, some had been seen in June too.

We saw a few playful dolphins, it was quite difficult to catch on camera though. The second part of the boat ride was too rough, and that's why I was a bit hesitant, I felt companies simply wanted to take out money, if I were the captain, in such a windy and waved situation, the last thing I could care about would be to see whales, instead, having everyone aboard safe.

Anyway, we went back to pier, left the boat and had the last lunch, delicious as usual.

Although I could stay longer and explore deeply this fabulous island I'm happy to come back home, we headed to the airport, wait for the plane to take off, enjoy the flight, and repeat until finally arrived home.

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FIN

Once again I felt connected with Nature, untouched, raw nature as in the Azores. A place to discover for you, nature lover, I promise it'll not disappoint.

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Footnotes

Fujifilm X-T3 + 16mmF1.4 + 18-55mm + 55-200mm + 100-400mm + DJI Mavic 2

FootNotes

Fujifilm X-T3 + 16mmF1.4 + 18-55mm + 55-200mm + 100-400mm + DJI Mavic 2

© 2026 Javi Lorbada

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